According to the Society for the Preservation of Irish Soda Bread – yes, there is such a thing! – Irish soda bread was born of necessity during the potato famine. Ireland was importing a soft type of wheat from America, and yeast was difficult to obtain. Adding baking soda (also called bread soda) to soft wheat flour made it workable for baking bread, and a total of only four ingredients was required.
“The chemical magic between baking soda and an acidic substance was a discovery made by many scientists,” noted the society. For an acid, salt or diluted hydrochloric acid was used at first, then fermented milk left over from butter-making, and then buttermilk.
“The unique combination of flour, salt, baking soda, and buttermilk eluded many … but eventually it became the recipe of the daily bread in Ireland in the second half of the 19th century,” wrote the society’s Ed O’Dwyer, a Civil War reenactor and student of Irish folklore and traditional recipes whose Facebook page boasts 1,000 followers. “Remarkably, it remains a cherished part of Irish cuisine to this day.”
Mr. O’Dwyer reported that a newspaper in Northern Ireland once stated that “there is no bread to be had equal to it for invigorating the body, promoting digestion, strengthening the stomach, and improving the state of the bowels.”
The preservation society’s mission is simply “to honor our ancestors by preserving the authenticity of this ancient recipe and educating the public on its rich history.” The ancient recipe calls for four basic ingredients and not one more: salt, baking soda, flour, and buttermilk. Raisins and caraway seeds are unwelcome. “Anything else added makes it a ‘Tea Cake!’”
The shape of soda bread is also steeped in tradition, according to the website of Encyclopaedia Britannica. “The Northern regions of Ireland divide their dough into four triangular shapes, with each triangle cooked on a flat griddle.”
“The Southern Irish regions bake their loaves in a classic round fashion and cut a cross on top of the bread,” the website continues. “This was done for superstitious reasons, as families believed a cross on top of the bread would let the fairies out or ward off evil and protect the household.”
All of which leads, inevitably, to a reminder that the Friends of the Montauk Library are celebrating St. Patrick’s Day with an Irish Soda Bread Bakeoff this weekend.
“The history and culture of Irish Soda Bread are still being fiercely debated almost 200 years after it became a necessary staple in Ireland during the Potato Famine,” says an announcement for the fundraising event. “We will not be wading into those disputes, but just enjoying the versatility and deliciousness of this bread and showing off the baking skills of our local community.”
Irish soda bread lovers can participate as bakers, tasters, or both. Bakers stand to win $100 if the tasting committee chooses their submission. They are invited to bring two loaves of bread to the Montauk Library by 10:30 a.m. on Saturday, March 15, after registering at foml@montauklibrary.org. The ingredients can’t require refrigeration, and any liquor must be cooked off; bakers are also asked to bring a copy of their recipe.
Want to just have a taste – slathered with Irish butter and some grand jams and jellies, perhaps? Come to the library between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. on Saturday and pay $5 for some bread with a cup of nonalcoholic Irish coffee or hot chocolate. Children 6 years and under can have a taste for free.
“Go traditional or invent a style all your own,” the Friends tell prospective bakers, a message that suggests there will be a mouth-watering assortment.
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